Wednesday, 26 May 2010
Wednesday Wk4 (ArtWeaver)
Wednesday night was another busy evening, a compact hour and a half filled to the brim with information about editing images, resolution, white balance and to top it all off, a little bit of theatre, wow, the course title, 'Introduction to photography' doesn't do the plethora of experiences justice.
Anyway re-cap time and I have attempted to provide a detailed account of the evenings activities in particular a walk through of the software you used, Art Weaver found at the following website artweaver.de
To view the images in more detail click on them and they should open in a new window.
As a freely available image editing program it is surprisingly advanced with lots of great features. The following presents the steps to create a Triptych using basic but frequently used tools. Most importantly it includes details about resolution which is hugely important to ensure you get the best quality output for your work.
To begin, download and install the software from the above address.
Once installed and open the screen you are presented appears like this...
It is referred to as a workspace. As well as the Menu Bar at the top you have to the left and right of your workspace boxes called Pallets. Pallets allow you to have to hand the most frequently used tools, they can be easily moved, closed, or hidden.
The main Pallet is called the Toolbox. For this exercise we will use the Move Tool (black triangle with cross sign) and the Crop Tool (looks like two 'L' shapes intersecting).
First thing to do is start a New Document. Goto File>New
Give your Document a name and set the Image Size to a Preset setting of 1024 x 768 px (pixels)
Once you have created your New Document we are going to use it as our Blank Canvas for our images.
We will be placing three images side by side so it is important to choose ones that work together.
For ease select your images and put them in a separate folder.
The next few steps are to be repeated for each image.
Goto File>Open
To make the selection process easier you can change the way you can view your images. By selecting the window icon (as shown) change the viewing option to Thumbnails.
Your image will open in a New Window. The first thing to do is change the size for what you want to achieve, in this case a Triptych to appear online.
Goto Image>Image Size
A dialogue box appears allowing you to alter the image dimensions and resolution.
Generally your camera and computer will transfer and save files at a default of 72 ppi (Pixels Per Inch) unless asked differently.
As a Rule of Thumb 72 pixels in an inch is the maximum quality required for the screen, no matter how big the screen. But for print it is recommended you change the quality to a higher setting, somewhere between 200 and 3oo (ppi) pixels in an inch - on paper more pixels squeezed into an inch the better quality your print will be.
However the number of pixels you have to play with is determined by the quality setting of the camera hence why the other Rule of Thumb applies, Small is considered suitable for the internet and e-mail, anything bigger will not only take longer to upload or send but provides a higher quality image for people to download and print.
An image shot on quality setting Large will be enormous when there are only 72 pixels in the inch. If you change the default measurement from pixels to centimeters you will get a better idea how big, they can be anything upto 1.5 meters wide - to fill a screen only requires an image measuring approximately 20-30 cm.
So...Keep the Resolution at 72ppi and change the dimensions to approximately 300px wide (about 7cm). Note the chain icon keeps the dimensions proportional. Click Apply to accept the changes.
Next. Goto Select>All
Goto Edit> Copy
Select the Window with your blank canvas.
Goto Edit>Paste.
Note the size in proportion to the canvas size we had set.
Follow the past few steps so all images are at the correct dimensions and appearing on your canvas.
Now we want to ensure the images are laid out with an even border. A useful guide for completing this task is the Grid.
Goto View>Show Grid
Set your border at 2 boxes deep and arrange the images accordingly.
Remember to select the relevant layer to correctly adjust the image.
Having set our border we can change our canvas size to make it all even.
Select the Crop Tool.
Note, by hoovering over the Tools with your cursor will reveal a label with the name of the Tool.
Drag the Crop Tool over your image. On release of the Tool a bounding box will appear. By clicking on the anchor points (small boxes) allows you to fine tune the size you want the canvas to be.
Once you are happy. Click Apply.
Goto View>Hide Grid
If you are happy Goto File>Save As and save your image as a Jpeg
Note, the file format for Art Weaver is AWD, to retain the layers or be able to make further adjustments save in this format. For output to your blog or to print use Jpeg.
Brilliant. Now Show off your work on your Blog.
Anyway re-cap time and I have attempted to provide a detailed account of the evenings activities in particular a walk through of the software you used, Art Weaver found at the following website artweaver.de
To view the images in more detail click on them and they should open in a new window.
As a freely available image editing program it is surprisingly advanced with lots of great features. The following presents the steps to create a Triptych using basic but frequently used tools. Most importantly it includes details about resolution which is hugely important to ensure you get the best quality output for your work.
To begin, download and install the software from the above address.
Once installed and open the screen you are presented appears like this...
It is referred to as a workspace. As well as the Menu Bar at the top you have to the left and right of your workspace boxes called Pallets. Pallets allow you to have to hand the most frequently used tools, they can be easily moved, closed, or hidden.
The main Pallet is called the Toolbox. For this exercise we will use the Move Tool (black triangle with cross sign) and the Crop Tool (looks like two 'L' shapes intersecting).
First thing to do is start a New Document. Goto File>New
Give your Document a name and set the Image Size to a Preset setting of 1024 x 768 px (pixels)
Once you have created your New Document we are going to use it as our Blank Canvas for our images.
We will be placing three images side by side so it is important to choose ones that work together.
For ease select your images and put them in a separate folder.
The next few steps are to be repeated for each image.
Goto File>Open
To make the selection process easier you can change the way you can view your images. By selecting the window icon (as shown) change the viewing option to Thumbnails.
Your image will open in a New Window. The first thing to do is change the size for what you want to achieve, in this case a Triptych to appear online.
Goto Image>Image Size
A dialogue box appears allowing you to alter the image dimensions and resolution.
Generally your camera and computer will transfer and save files at a default of 72 ppi (Pixels Per Inch) unless asked differently.
As a Rule of Thumb 72 pixels in an inch is the maximum quality required for the screen, no matter how big the screen. But for print it is recommended you change the quality to a higher setting, somewhere between 200 and 3oo (ppi) pixels in an inch - on paper more pixels squeezed into an inch the better quality your print will be.
However the number of pixels you have to play with is determined by the quality setting of the camera hence why the other Rule of Thumb applies, Small is considered suitable for the internet and e-mail, anything bigger will not only take longer to upload or send but provides a higher quality image for people to download and print.
An image shot on quality setting Large will be enormous when there are only 72 pixels in the inch. If you change the default measurement from pixels to centimeters you will get a better idea how big, they can be anything upto 1.5 meters wide - to fill a screen only requires an image measuring approximately 20-30 cm.
So...Keep the Resolution at 72ppi and change the dimensions to approximately 300px wide (about 7cm). Note the chain icon keeps the dimensions proportional. Click Apply to accept the changes.
Next. Goto Select>All
Goto Edit> Copy
Select the Window with your blank canvas.
Goto Edit>Paste.
Note the size in proportion to the canvas size we had set.
Follow the past few steps so all images are at the correct dimensions and appearing on your canvas.
Now we want to ensure the images are laid out with an even border. A useful guide for completing this task is the Grid.
Goto View>Show Grid
Set your border at 2 boxes deep and arrange the images accordingly.
Remember to select the relevant layer to correctly adjust the image.
Having set our border we can change our canvas size to make it all even.
Select the Crop Tool.
Note, by hoovering over the Tools with your cursor will reveal a label with the name of the Tool.
Drag the Crop Tool over your image. On release of the Tool a bounding box will appear. By clicking on the anchor points (small boxes) allows you to fine tune the size you want the canvas to be.
Once you are happy. Click Apply.
Goto View>Hide Grid
If you are happy Goto File>Save As and save your image as a Jpeg
Note, the file format for Art Weaver is AWD, to retain the layers or be able to make further adjustments save in this format. For output to your blog or to print use Jpeg.
Brilliant. Now Show off your work on your Blog.
Thursday, 13 May 2010
Wednesday: Week Three
Wednesday evening introduced a mix of subjects that included, macro/lenses, program mode, ISO and creating a narrative through your imagery.
Macro -
For a brief overview of the Macro function refer to the Monday Week 2 (Macro) entry; in most instances this mode will allow you to get closer to a subject than most other, however for effective close-up photography you may consider investing in a Macro lens. The choice of lens can be a complicated and lengthy process but the following information may help, much of which has been taken from a brilliant online resource called Photonotes.
You may find a situation when you want to get really close to a subject to photograph its delicate and minute detail but the lens you are using won't permit it; the lens doesn't achieve a sharp focus, this is where a Macro function on the lens allows you to get that much further.
However there are thin
gs to watch out for when buying a Macro lens.
"The fact a lens has MACRO printed on it basically means nothing, and you have to look closely at the lens specs. If a lens can do 1:1 or 1:2 photography then it’s a real macro lens, optimized for closeup photography".
Image of a Soap Bubble by Jason Tozer
The Macro facility can be found on lenses of most focal ranges. The focal lens refers to the field of view you can photograph, for example, most cameras are purchased as a kit (camera and lens), usually the lens is a Zoom allowing you to shoot from a semi wide view (17mm) to a normal view (55mm). However it can be a good idea to choose a fairly long focal length, i.e. 180mm as it allows you to achieve some distance from your subject to avoid distortion or disturbing for example wildlife that you may be photographing.
Macro lenses can be expensive, it may cost several hundred pounds to find a good quality one but there are options of course, perhaps the best, especially when starting out is a Macro Filter. These screw on the front of your lens and simply act as a magnifying glass, and you can buy a very basic one from 7dayshop for around £4.
Another very good website for exploring the technical and theoretical aspects of photography is Cambridge in Colour, click here to explore Macro in more detail.
Program Mod
e -
As apposed to the fully Auto mode the 'P' mode (Program Mode) allows relative freedom with regards to controlling the brightness of your images. Program Mode will allow you to adjust the ISO (the sensitivity of the sensor to light) but will work out the shutter and aperture for you - remember the Exposure triangle!
This mode offers other functions (depending on your camera) such as a metering option, and filter options such as, monochrome, but the flexibility is offered through the exposure compensation control denoted either as a small '+/-' symbol or the letters 'AV'.
By holding d
own this button and turning the dial usually found on the top/back of the camera body allows you to make adjustments of a 1/3 of an exposure to the brightness of your photograph, these subtle changes in brightness can make a large difference to the qualities of your image such as in portraiture and landscapes.
Narrative-
To complete the evening we used both Macro and Program Mode to achieve a combination of photographs; close-up and contextual to offer a narrative. An effective way to document an event can be to compliment general shots that capture your subject matter in full and present context with shots that feature detail. Such techniques are commonly used in articles such as in design (Elle Decoration) and Sunday magazines. A wide shot of a living room can be complimented by detailed images of what is on the wall or the pattern of fabric on the furniture.
There are many scenarios it may be used and the task this week is to document a part of your week. Next session Chris will show us how to adjust the size of images according to different needs and demonstrate how we can quickly arrange a series of images into a simple layout.
Happy snapping.
Macro -
For a brief overview of the Macro function refer to the Monday Week 2 (Macro) entry; in most instances this mode will allow you to get closer to a subject than most other, however for effective close-up photography you may consider investing in a Macro lens. The choice of lens can be a complicated and lengthy process but the following information may help, much of which has been taken from a brilliant online resource called Photonotes.
You may find a situation when you want to get really close to a subject to photograph its delicate and minute detail but the lens you are using won't permit it; the lens doesn't achieve a sharp focus, this is where a Macro function on the lens allows you to get that much further.
However there are thin
gs to watch out for when buying a Macro lens."The fact a lens has MACRO printed on it basically means nothing, and you have to look closely at the lens specs. If a lens can do 1:1 or 1:2 photography then it’s a real macro lens, optimized for closeup photography".
Image of a Soap Bubble by Jason Tozer
The Macro facility can be found on lenses of most focal ranges. The focal lens refers to the field of view you can photograph, for example, most cameras are purchased as a kit (camera and lens), usually the lens is a Zoom allowing you to shoot from a semi wide view (17mm) to a normal view (55mm). However it can be a good idea to choose a fairly long focal length, i.e. 180mm as it allows you to achieve some distance from your subject to avoid distortion or disturbing for example wildlife that you may be photographing.
Macro lenses can be expensive, it may cost several hundred pounds to find a good quality one but there are options of course, perhaps the best, especially when starting out is a Macro Filter. These screw on the front of your lens and simply act as a magnifying glass, and you can buy a very basic one from 7dayshop for around £4.
Another very good website for exploring the technical and theoretical aspects of photography is Cambridge in Colour, click here to explore Macro in more detail.
Program Mod
e -As apposed to the fully Auto mode the 'P' mode (Program Mode) allows relative freedom with regards to controlling the brightness of your images. Program Mode will allow you to adjust the ISO (the sensitivity of the sensor to light) but will work out the shutter and aperture for you - remember the Exposure triangle!
This mode offers other functions (depending on your camera) such as a metering option, and filter options such as, monochrome, but the flexibility is offered through the exposure compensation control denoted either as a small '+/-' symbol or the letters 'AV'.
By holding d
own this button and turning the dial usually found on the top/back of the camera body allows you to make adjustments of a 1/3 of an exposure to the brightness of your photograph, these subtle changes in brightness can make a large difference to the qualities of your image such as in portraiture and landscapes.Narrative-
To complete the evening we used both Macro and Program Mode to achieve a combination of photographs; close-up and contextual to offer a narrative. An effective way to document an event can be to compliment general shots that capture your subject matter in full and present context with shots that feature detail. Such techniques are commonly used in articles such as in design (Elle Decoration) and Sunday magazines. A wide shot of a living room can be complimented by detailed images of what is on the wall or the pattern of fabric on the furniture.
There are many scenarios it may be used and the task this week is to document a part of your week. Next session Chris will show us how to adjust the size of images according to different needs and demonstrate how we can quickly arrange a series of images into a simple layout.
Happy snapping.
Saturday, 8 May 2010
Camera Reviews
A great site for learning more about your camera or if you are thinking about investing in a camera or lens then dpreview offer perhaps the most comprehensive testing and review process on the web. It also offers a very informative forum where you may engage in discussion/s with other members.
Monday: Week Two (Macro)
The macro facility on your camera is an auto setting that allows you to shoot closer than other settings will permit, so if you want to capture detail in subjects such as the texture of a sea shell, the weave of fabric or the subtle tones of flower petals then the macro function is what to use.
Macro is an Auto setting so the camera will work out the exposure for you, (I may have to check this?) Sometimes this has disadvantages as the camera may determine the necessity to use flash and this can mean loosing some detail in the highlight areas.
The range of the focus will vary depending on the camera and lens you are using so it is a good idea to become familiar with this range. Start by getting as close to the object as you can. With the camera lens on AF (Auto Focus) try and focus: Usually when the camera has focussed on the subject it will beeb and a guide in the view finder (usually a rectangle) will flash green, it is normally red if focus hasn't been achieved. Move back from the object gradually pressing the shutter half way to focus the camera as you move - eventually you will find the distance to which you can focus.
Consider what you will photograph and maybe after experimenting and getting familiar with the setting try building a collection of images around the same subject matter - consider, texture, pattern and the tonal range of your subject.
Thursday, 6 May 2010
Wednesday: Week Two (Blogging)
A blog (a contraction of the term "web log") is a type of website, usually maintained by an individual with regular entries of commentary, descriptions of events, or other material such as graphics or video. Entries are commonly displayed in reverse-chronological order. "Blog" can also be used as a verb, meaning to maintain or add content to a blog.
A photoblog (or photolog, or phlog) is a form of photo sharing and publishing in the format of a blog. It differs from a blog through the predominant use of and focus on photographs rather than text.
This evening you successfully set up a blog or to be more specific, because it will be predominantly used to publish photographs it also be known as a photoblog. The photoblog will give us a great opportunity to converse beyond the Wednesday night class; share, experiences, technical information and inspire each other. However it will also provide you a platform to share your images with family and friends and over time it will offer you a record of progress and an archive of solutions to photographic problems you encounter.
Blogger is the name of the company that offer you the blog service and as they are now part of Google it means you can access your blog in two ways: You can either log into Google and go to your account settings and select your blog, or, you can input your blog address into the address bar of your browser, for example, for this blog I type thercatphotoblog.blogspot.com
Remember the name
you are using will always be followed by .blogspot.com, if you forget what your blog web address is log into Google and access your blog that way.
The secret to finding your way around your blog is not to get too overwhelmed by the interface it offers, take it slow; begin by concentrating on adding some content. To do this, open a new tab in your browser and type your blog address, then sign in. This will take you to the main edit page called the dashboard. From here you will find the entries you have/will make and have the opportunity to edit/delete them. Select New Post to add a new entry, you will then be presented with a screen similar to a word document that allows you to type into a window and add other content. Perhaps the most important icon from the selection of editing tools you have is the one that looks like a picture, this allows you to add a photograph. Selecting it will offer up a new window allowing you to browse your computer for the photograph you want to publish. If you have been working in a s
mall quality mode on your camera then it shouldn't take long to upload otherwise it may take a few minutes.
Select the size the image will appear and the position on the screen where it will appear and you are done.
Saving your post will allow you to continue editing it later without it being publishe
d. Selecting Publish Now will post your entry to your blog for all to see.
Finally, your blog page can appear as any preformatted page you choose by selecting Layout and then Template Design but most have a similar layout; your entries appear as a column with a record of the posts you have made on the right. Above this record are icons that represent the people that are following you. Selecting their image will allow you to visit their page...
...I hope this helps, in later blogs I will add more information that will help you customise your blog further.
A photoblog (or photolog, or phlog) is a form of photo sharing and publishing in the format of a blog. It differs from a blog through the predominant use of and focus on photographs rather than text.
Description from Wikipedia
This evening you successfully set up a blog or to be more specific, because it will be predominantly used to publish photographs it also be known as a photoblog. The photoblog will give us a great opportunity to converse beyond the Wednesday night class; share, experiences, technical information and inspire each other. However it will also provide you a platform to share your images with family and friends and over time it will offer you a record of progress and an archive of solutions to photographic problems you encounter.
Blogger is the name of the company that offer you the blog service and as they are now part of Google it means you can access your blog in two ways: You can either log into Google and go to your account settings and select your blog, or, you can input your blog address into the address bar of your browser, for example, for this blog I type thercatphotoblog.blogspot.com
Remember the name
you are using will always be followed by .blogspot.com, if you forget what your blog web address is log into Google and access your blog that way.The secret to finding your way around your blog is not to get too overwhelmed by the interface it offers, take it slow; begin by concentrating on adding some content. To do this, open a new tab in your browser and type your blog address, then sign in. This will take you to the main edit page called the dashboard. From here you will find the entries you have/will make and have the opportunity to edit/delete them. Select New Post to add a new entry, you will then be presented with a screen similar to a word document that allows you to type into a window and add other content. Perhaps the most important icon from the selection of editing tools you have is the one that looks like a picture, this allows you to add a photograph. Selecting it will offer up a new window allowing you to browse your computer for the photograph you want to publish. If you have been working in a s
mall quality mode on your camera then it shouldn't take long to upload otherwise it may take a few minutes.Select the size the image will appear and the position on the screen where it will appear and you are done.
Saving your post will allow you to continue editing it later without it being publishe
d. Selecting Publish Now will post your entry to your blog for all to see.Finally, your blog page can appear as any preformatted page you choose by selecting Layout and then Template Design but most have a similar layout; your entries appear as a column with a record of the posts you have made on the right. Above this record are icons that represent the people that are following you. Selecting their image will allow you to visit their page...
...I hope this helps, in later blogs I will add more information that will help you customise your blog further.
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